If the land around Mqabba seems barren and stripped, it is because this village is situated in the heart of the soft limestone quarry area. Geologically, Malta can be divided in two. The western half is an expanse of a hard variety of limestone called tal-qawwi, or coralline. Because it's so hard, coralline limestone was widely used in the construction of the fortifications. Most of the eastern area consists of the much softer globigerina type. Known as tal-franka, this material is easier to handle and more often used in the building industry today. Mqabba has more than a quarter of the nation's quarries, and activity is visible along its main approach on both sides of Triq il-Belt Valletta. (...)
(...) The character of the villagers, a strong-willed and highly competitive community, began to manifest itself in the 16th century. In 1575 the village had only 30 families and, together with several nearby villages, formed part of the parish of Bir Miftuh, two miles east. Unhappy with the situation, l-imqabbin clamoured for parish status. In 1592 Bishop Gargallo established a new parish consisting of Mqabba, Kirkop and Safi, but he chose Kirkop to run it. This, of course, failed to appease the people of Mqabba. (...) In 1598 Mqabba became one of the smallest parishes.(...)
(...) The next big obstacle for Mqabba was World War II. Situated on the fringes of the airport, Mqabba could not escape the onslaught of enemy bombs. 19 villagers lost their lives and the church was badly damaged. Many activities had to be interrupted. But no sooner were the enemy planes recalled than the mqabbin were back at work in their fields and quarries with their exemplary resolve and competitiveness.(...)
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(...) The church overseas Misrah San Nikola, the focal point of the village. This is the "Siggywiggy" of British tourists, the perfect postcard. Dominated by a huge statue of the patron saint, the village square brims with devotional and recreational sites - the Holy Family Oratory (1913) and San Nikola Band Club west of the church, Siggiewi Festival Brass Band on the east, St. Mary Church (1611 and 1742) on one side of the misrah, St. John the Beheaded (1730) on the other. (...)
(...) Buskett (Little Forest) was developed by the Knights, who were ever searching for places to practice their hunting bents. Grand Master de la Valette, who successfully led the knights and Maltese to victory in the Great Siege of 1565, died not of scars on the battlefront but here at peaceful Buskett through overexertion in his favourite sport of falconry. And Grand Master Hughes Loubenx de Verdalle "surrendered all cares", as a Latin inscription reads, in the summer castle that overlooks the gardens.(...)
(...) Guests probably aren't told that the castle is haunted by the Blue Lady. As usual with Maltese legends, there is more than one version. The Blue Lady could have been one of de Verdalle's maids who refused to submit to punishment. Or it could be a woman who had been forcibly abducted and refused to be raped. Or Grand Master de Rohan's niece Cecile who, not bearing to see her fiancé tortured by French soldiers demanding a non-existent treasure, borrowed a soldier's sword and killed her fiancéex to end his misery. Then - and the ending is the same for all versions - she threw herself out of a window into the moat. (...)
(...) Ghar il-Kbir (The Great Cave) has collapsed. Its remaining cavities now used by sheep and goats, it resembles a Christmas crib and gives no indication that back in 1637 it housed 117 people. The last inhabitants of Ghar il-Kbir were relocated against their wishes in 1835. (...)
(...) This is one of the prettiest parts of the country. To the north are the trees and water mills of Buskett's evergreen plateau, which leads to the grand castle. To the east is ta' l-Gholja (Hill), a lofty expanse crowned by a 52-foot cross. To the west are the nature-chiselled Dingli Cliffs, a favourite scenic spot. To the south is the hanging hamlet of Fawwara. (...)
[GO BACK TO THE TABLE OF CONTENTS] (...) The story of Dingli is one of two twins named Tartarni and Dinkili. Hal Tartarni (Village of Tartars) used to be the more prominent one. In fact it was the seat of one of the earliest parishes in Malta. This honour was deserved. A militia list compiled in 1419-20 shows 40 enlisted men. This meant a population of nearly 200, making it one of the largest communities on the islands. Three of the men had the name Dinkili.
(...) The name that stuck, Dingli, is also a Maltese family name. One interpretation would have one believe that it was Sir Thomas Dingley (same pronunciation) who lent his name to the village. Sir Dingley was a member of the English Langue at the time that Henry VIII confiscated the rental income of the English knights. The poor knight asked the Order for some land at Dingli, and he got it. (...)
(...) The titular statue, a work of Anton Busuttil dating from 1861, portrays the Virgin Mary ascending to heaven. Several other localities in Malta and Gozo have similar statues, but Dingli seems to have an authenticity edge, even if it is one of the last villages to hold its annual festa (can be as late as August 23). Capping 17 days of preparation - a kwindicina (15 days of prayer), festa eve and festa day - the dinglin congregate on the village square to witness the appearance of the statue being carried out of the church. The Virgin's right arm reaches out to heaven from Malta's loftiest village. (...)
(...) On July 22 a mass is said on the steps of St. Mary Magdalene as the sun dips into the sea. At the lull of day the horizon fades, the lonely isle blackens, and the shimmering sea becomes a cradle for the setting sun. (...)
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(...) Zebbug claims more heroes and patriots than any other town or village with the exception of Valletta. (...)
(...) Many of the heroes are household names. Internationally acclaimed sculptor Antonio Sciortino (1883-1947), who gave us the Christ the King, is one. Famous painter Lazzaro Pisani (1854-1932) is another. The first national poet and author of the national anthem, Dun Karm Psaila, is yet another zebbugi, as are author/philologist Mikiel Anton Vassalli (1764-1829) and composer/conductor Nicolo Isouard (1775-1818). Mikiel Xerri and Francis Xavier Caruana are heroic priests who played a big part in the anti-French uprising of 1798. Xerri, better remembered as Dun Mikiel, was executed by a French military tribunal in 1799 at the age of 60. Caruana (1759-1847) survived the brief French occupation and became one of the better known bishops. (...)
(...) In the 18th century, the outlying villages of Malta vied to have each new grand master in their midst, hopefully to bestow city status to their localities. Zebbug leaders warmed up to Grand Master De Rohan. In their request they stated that Zebbug had the wealthiest people of Malta, the healthiest air, and abundant building material. They even promised that, if Zebbug became a city, they would erect two gateways. Could the grand master turn down such a request? (...)
(...) So in 1777 Zebbug became Città de Rohan, but it has yet to give up its 18th century architecture or its quintessential village charm. Distinctive wrought-iron windows, intricate balconies and arch-framed courtyards endure.Also surviving are three windmill towers, whose sails were so distinctive of the 18th century airscape. 17th and 18th century houses and palazzi still grace the streets of Zebbug. De Rohan Arch - only one was built to commemorate the new city status - is the entrance not to some belated city paradigm but to a dainty village-like town that gives one the feeling the 18th century isn't over yet. (...)
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Dealings with the people of Qormi should be conducted in the morning. Il-qriema are said to be reliable till noon only - sa nofs in-nhar irgiel ! After lunch, their main meal, they purportedly drink a long glass of wine and take an equally long nap.
This remark invites much conjecture and humour. Blame has even been placed on buildings blocking the sun from reaching the sundial on the side of St. George Parish Church in the afternoon hours, making the time-piece reliable in the morning only.
More appropriately, the remark reflects the fact that many qriema (also called qormin ) start their day very early and work very hard. This is particularly true of bakers. Before the Order of St.John built its own bakery in Valletta, it was Qormi that supplied the bread. At that time the village thrived on its imtiehen tal-miexi (mule-driven flour mills) and was known as Casal Fornaro or Hal Fornaro, i.e. "Baker Village". (A windmill tower survives from a later period.) (...)
(...) Other traditional occupations have to do with Qormi's location. Being so close to the horse race track at Marsa, it is no surprise that there are several blacksmiths and carriage makers. The only sight that beats the distinctive sulkies in action at the Marsa is the distinctive sulkies being assembled at Qormi. But the equestrian bond goes back to times much prior. In 1419, Qormi's 102-strong militia (110 with the lost village of Hal Kaprat) included 15 horsemen, quite a number in those times. To this day many qriema are horse owners.
Qormi also provides many port workers, such as stevedores. The proximity to the harbour, less than a mile away, is the primary reason. But, again, there is more to it than that. In older times Qormi was actually a port town, the waters of the Grand Harbour extending so much further inland that Pinto's Loggia (1772), now a mile from the Harbour, was erected as a waterfront pavilion. Through the 15th century Qormi was the only harbour town besides Birgu and its limits included the entire Xiberras (Xebb ir-Ras) promontory, on which Valletta and Furjana now stand. Even at today's reduced boundaries, Qormi would still be a port town had the Grand Harbour waters not receded. (...)
... One of the biggest draws is the Good Friday pageant at the parish of St. George. Dating from at least 1764, it features actors dressed in first century Jewish garb and artistic statues detailing the passion and death of Christ. There are traditionally eight statues. In 1908, Qormi was the first to introduce a ninth, portraying the betrayal of Judas. Zejtun tried to catch up with its own betrayal statue in 1961, but in that same year Qormi came out with two additional ones. The race was on. At the moment the two are even with twelve.
The drama unfolds along narrow, winding streets with hood mouldings, circular windows, stone arches, and intricate balconies. Triq il-Kbira offers several examples while a small street off Triq Dun Marju holds Stagno Palace (1589), one of Qormi's architectural treasures. (...)
END OF BOOK 2 [GO TO BOOK 3] [GO BACK TO THE TABLE OF CONTENTS]
We would like to thank Mr. Charles Fiott for granting us permission to publish the above excerpts.
Copyright © 1996 Charles Fiott - All Rights Reserved -
Towns and Villages in Malta and GozoPart 2: The South (Portraits of 21 towns and villages in BIRZEBBUGA
Published by the Conventual Franciscans of Rabat (Religjon u Hajja), Malta - 1994
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Copyright © 1998 Michael Riccioli All Rights Reserved
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