Towns and Villages
in
Malta and Gozo
A
four-part series
by Charles Fiott
(EXCERPTS)
Book
Three: The North
Portraits of 18 towns and villages in northern
Malta.
Table of
Contents
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by Charles Fiott (EXCERPTS) Portraits of 18 towns and villages in northern Malta. |
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(...) The railway line connecting Valletta and Mdina was laid out in the middle of the 19th century. The area that now makes up Santa Venera, midway between the old and the new capitals, constituted an important segment. Guard huts numbered four through six were located in it On July 22, 1923, a herd of 136 bulls at Guard Hut Number 4 crossing were hit by a Valletta-bound train. 34 bulls perished in a slaughter that also reminds one of the cattle trails of the American west.
A more pleasant story is told of the aqueduct that was constructed between 1610 and 1615, during Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt's rule (1601-22). The new capital of Valletta was then taking shape, but it was thirsty. And cities don't grow without water. The idea to pipe water from the springs of the northwest, where it was plentiful, to Valletta, where it was needed, had been proposed many times. But Santa Venera's elevation had presented a major problem. Based on the technology available at the time, the only feasible solution was the construction of a series of arches so that a gradual slope could be maintained.
As grand master, Wignacourt was expected to pay a gioja (gift). Whereas his predecessors had donated buildings and riches. he paid for the 9-mile aqueduct. A generous portion of the colonnade still clings to a tower that was constructed to monitor the flow of the water. Stone arches survive all the way to Fleur-de-Lis Junction, where a marble tablet on an elaborate archway once declared: "Hitherto Valletta has been dead. Now the spirit of water revives her." Support is growing for the reconstruction of this archway and the restoration of the aqueduct. (...)
(...) Another grand master associated with Santa Venera is Antonio Manoel de Vilhena, who ruled between 1724 and 1732. Just before he died, he built a country mansion which survives with all its baroque. This historic building is known as Dar il-Ljuni or Casa Leone (House of Lions), for two stone lions supporting Vilhena's coat of arms. In the 1950s, it served briefly as the National Museum of Malta, housing treasures that had been shuttled around during the war to avoid the bombings. (...)
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BIRKIRKARA
(...) Had no change occurred in
the framework of Maltese towns and villages since the time
of Napoleon... there would be over 100,000 karkarizi today,
almost one out of every three Maltese. Even as new towns and
villages were sliced out of it, Birkirkara's population
continued to grow, doubling between 1614 and 1766 (from
2,000 to
3,900) and again by 1911 (to 8,418). The current population
of about 22,000 makes this central town the largest locality
in Malta, with three times the population of the capital
city of Valletta.
Birkirkara has always been first and foremost in practically every facet of Maltese life. A high priority in all traditional communities is their hierarchical place in the church. One of the first parishes (already one in 1402), Birkirkara was also the first to be declared a collegiate (1630). A collegiate church is one that is run by canons, who rank higher than ordinary priests. Other dignities were bestowed over the centuries. The most recent one occurred in 1950, when Pope Pius XII raised Birkirkara to basilica status. (...)
The train brought many people to the festa of Santa Liena (St. Helen) on August 18 (now held the Sunday after). The procession with St. Helen's statue is still held in the morning, right before the high mass, even though late night transportation is now available. Birkirkara is alone in retaining the morning tradition. The celebration is a two-week affair, with plenty of fireworks and music provided primarily by Birkirkara's own societies. (...)
(...) Birkirkara has the largest bell in the Maltese Islands. Cast in Milan in 1931, the nearly 100-qantar (8-tonne) bell was welcomed at the Grand Harbour by a large, excited crowd. It was hoisted to its permanent place on January 24, 1932 in an elaborate ceremony attended by thousands of people. It is over three metres high and almost 2.5 metres in diameter. (...)
The karkarizi, whose nickname is fuhharin (potters), take pride in their historic landmarks such as the windmill towers of Ghar il-Gobon (Cheese Cave) and ta' Ganu. The former lies in the district of Has-Sajjied (Fisherman's Village) while the more noted ta'Ganu (1724) in Bwieraq (asphodel) is now an art studio. Also worthy of mention are dozens of well-maintained street niches and a 300-year-old stone cross believed to be erected on the site of a murder that is still talked about. According to the story, an innocent man inadvertently helped the murderer stalk his quarry. A folkloristic song keeps the legend alive. It is called Rajt ma rajtx, smajt ma smajtx (You saw nothing, you heard nothing).
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BALZAN
If there is one Maltese locality where the relentless summer sun is kept fairly in check, it is Balzan. The name of this village, which is known for its walled gardens, has been associated with balzmu (balsam). It is doubtful that Balzan, a family name, has anything to do with balsam, but there is no doubting where the village's motto comes from. Hortibus Undique Septa means 'surrounded by gardens'.
One of the "three villages" (the other two are Attard and Lija), Balzan is situated in the geographic centre of the main island. Surrounding communities shield it from the salty sea spray and the Great Ridge a few miles to the north protects it from the north winds. It is therefore no wonder that trees grow well, providing shelter from the hot Maltese sun. That makes the caption that accompanies the sundial at San Anton Palace quite apt: "By its shadow the sun guides us"(...)
(...) San Anton Palace is a symbol of earthly luxury and opulence that so well characterizes 17th century rulers. De Paule's servants included twelve pages, four valets, two physicians, five priests, a butler, a steward, three secretaries, several drummers and trumpeters, a clock repairer, a rat catcher, a wig maker, a baker that made bread for the hunting dogs, and several people that took care of his stables and falcons.
The Grand Master's own inauguration dinner was so lavish that Inquisitor Chigi, later a pope (Alexander VII), decided to show his displeasure. A long series of disagreements between the two princes followed, and the inquisitor vainly sought to commit De Paule's mistress to a nunnery. (...)
(...) The old Lunzjata church is one of three 16th century churches that survive next to one another in a street consequently named Triq it-Tliet Knejjes. On one side (west) of Lunzjata is St. Roque, guardian against plagues, on the other St.Leonard, patron saint of slaves. St.Roque dates from the plague of 1593. Its original graffiti came to light in 1986, after the interior paint was removed. (...)
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LIJA
With three oranges on its emblem, Lija stakes its claim as Malta's fruit basket. Suavi Fructo Rubeo (With Sweet Fruits I Redden) reads the village's motto, which street vendors advertise aloud: ta'Hal Lija l-laring helu (sweet oranges from Lija).
Indeed, oranges from Lija and its neighbour villages come in all shapes and colours. The tastiest one is the "blood orange", so called because of its blood-coloured peel and juice. The "egg"" or Portugal orange made its way to Malta during the Spanish period while the "Bahia" was introduced by Governor Grenfell in 1901. The "bitter" is used in marmalade while its blossoms go into the production of that time-honoured elixir ilma zahar (orange-flower water). (...)
(...)In 1606 Hal Lija acquired Hal Bordi (or Ghadir il-Bordi, i.e. "Papyrus Pool") and Hal Mann (or Lamanni, i.e. German Village) from Attard. These are two very old casali which had provided 16 members to the Maltese militia in 1419. In 1575, Lija's population stood at 400. With the inclusion of Mann and Bordi, it increased to 760 in 1610. The old cemetery of Hal Mann, known as ta'l-Abbati (Acolyte) survives. (...)
(...) On February 20, 1743, the sexton reported that Our Lady's image on the triptych was shedding tears and sweat. An earthquake shook the Maltese Islands the next day, but there were no casualties. Since then, the church has been known as tal-Mirakli (Our Lady of Miracles) and the faith in the power of praying to this Madonna remains strong to this day. (...)
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ATTARD
H'Attard is the only village with the doubly abbreviated H for "village". The H stands for Hal, which in turn is short for Rahal (Village). As far as the remainder of the name is concerned, Attard is a common family name. Responsibility may rest with a 15th century Attardo family which resided in nearby Zebbug but had vast properties in Attard. Members of this family were among the first to insist that Attard, which then comprised the villages of Hal Warda, Hal Mann, Hal Bordi, and possibly Hal Kaprat, should become a parish. The debate raged for a hundred years, and it was decided in Attard's favour in 1575.
(...) Next to the site of Attard's railway station (now a garden) lie Villa Bologna (now the United States Embassy) and its walled garden. This large palazzo was home to Lord Strickland (1861-1940), Malta's prime minister between 1927 and 1930. A leader first in introducing the train to Malta then in bringing its service to an end, Strickland admitted that, with the station practically in his backyard, he was a prime beneficiary of what he termed a "charitable institution". He boasted that the Maltese railway had the cheapest fares in the world. A penny bought a one-way trip across the island. (...)
Another of the great buildings of Attard is the parish church dedicated to St. Mary (Assumption). This was built between 1613 and 1616 by native son Tumas Dingli. Born in 1591, Dingli built half a dozen of Malta's most beautiful parish churches during a career that spanned half a century, but the one in Attard is special. This is the first known to have been designed by him, the only one that hasn't been altered and, arguably, the best renaissance monument on the island. Also of note are the 17th and 18th century paintings, the "new" organ (1861), and the clock made by Mikelang Sapiano in 1872. The attractive titular statue, made in Paris in 1874, becomes the centre of attraction during the annual festa in mid-August. On such occasions the village is served by its band, the Stella Levantina (Eastern Star). (...)
(...)At ta'Qali we also find a crafts centre with artisans in action. Here one can see wrought-iron and metal works, Mdina Glass being mouth-blown, pottery hand-made. One can buy stone ornamental ware, delicate gold and silver filigree, woodwork, lace, weaving and a miniature or life-size armour of the Knights of Malta. Such souvenirs from ta'Qali Crafts Village decorate thousands of homes all around the world (...)
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MDINA
Longest-serving Maltese capital, Mdina runs on a clock of its own, the past present within massive ramparts that centuries cannot age. It is the oldest city in Malta, one of the oldest in the world.
Mdina isn't just the old capital of Malta. In many ways it is Malta. The two share a similar ensign, though unofficial renditions may portray differences. In earlier times they even shared the very name. Melith to the Greeks meant both the city and the country. So did Melita to the Romans. Malta's old capital was already a shining city in Graeco-Roman days, a Greek theatre and a temple to Apollo gracing the well-known municipality. (...)
(...) during the 15th century at least a quarter of Mdina's people were Jews. Though required to enlist in the militia (58 did in 1419), Jews never became assimilated into the Maltese culture. On the contrary, altercations between the two races were frequent. The Jews, who had one of their three Maltese synagogues in Mdina, were expelled by King Ferdinand in 1492, the same year he sent Columbus on his epic journey to the new world. In place of the synagogue, a Benedictine Nunnery (Santa Skolastika) was erected in 1496. (...)
(...) At one point during that siege, the Turks did plan to attack Mdina. Despite the impregnable walls, the city had no ammunition and no garrison, only refugees and old uniforms. All able-bodied men had been sent to defend Birgu. So the governor of Mdina ordered the old men, women and children to don the dusty uniforms and climb the ramparts. The strategy worked; thinking that the city was heavily manned, the Turks called off the raid. (...)
(...)The building of a new capital (Valletta) did not diminish Mdina's charm. It preserved it. Triq Villegaignon, the Strada Reale of Mdina, is the only through street, its width varying between 3 and 6 metres. The other streets and lanes are even narrower, so narrow that some residents can shake hands with neighbours across the street without stepping down from their doorsteps. Street corners are adorned with characteristic niches and lanterns. Exquisite brass door knockers portray Neptune and marine creatures such as sea horses and dolphins.
(...) Guarded by two 1693 brass cannons (among those captured, but returned, by the British), the cathedral is a horde of treasures. Marble works include the main altar, with samples brought from Carthage when that Punic city was pillaged in 146 BC, and the baptismal font presented by Bishop Giacomo Valguarnera in 1495. The silver tabernacle in the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament is believed by some to have come from the hands of Benvenuto Cellini. Beautiful mosaic and delicate Venetian chandeliers further enhance the dignity of the cathedral. (...)
Mdina's favourite lable is 'The Silent City'. This is a term that can be experienced, not explained. Along the narrow streets fit only for the karozzin, the old horse-and-carriage way of travel which tourists saved from extinction, heavy doors jealously protect ancient homes where even the gardens are walled and hidden from view. At Bastion Square, by contrast, a silent battery provides an exhilarating view which, on a clear day, may even take in a glimpse of Mount Etna in Sicily. (...)
(...) Stripped of its capital status but not of its prestige, Mdina remained an enclave of nobility. Popularly called Città Vecchia (Old City) until recent times, it continued to harbour within its ancient walls several title-bearing residents. The Maltese aristocracy includes barons, counts, and marquises, with precedence determined by seniority, not type of title. Only in 1975 did the government discontinue acknowledgement of titles of nobility.But nobody can discount the nobility of the city. An awe-inspiring sight by day, when the sun's rays batter vainly against the strong bastions, or by night, when the footlights keep it from fading into the dark, Mdina stands boldly on a hilltop like a mythical prince protecting his loyal subjects. At his feet, the terraced fields form carpeted steps to his domain. The bastions are his shining shield, the cathedral dome a jeweled crown over his head. (...)
(...) The term Silent City is perhaps best exemplified by the enormous Benedictine Nunnery. This is a very old building which was originally used as a women's hospital. It 1418 it became a convent of silence, an abode of nuns living and praying in strict seclusion. It has been remarked that no males have ever been allowed inside except doctors and whitewashers, the services of the latter being required to disinfect the walls after outbreaks of plagues. Occasionally, the cloistered nunnery served the aristocratic families as a dump for unwanted girls. Once a young girl took her vows, she never saw Triq Villegaignon again. Even after she died, she was buried inside the convent (this was discontinued in 1974). During the 1962 elections, which were dominated by a tense politico-religious dispute, Archbishop Gonzi caused a furour when he allowed the nuns to leave the convent in order to vote. (...)
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