(...) With more churches than Valletta, Rabat continues to be a showcase of faith. St. Sebastian (1519), St. Bartholomew (1550), and Santa Marija ta' Duna (prior to 1575) are among many that date from the 16th century. To some, though, the 16th century gave only a facelift. San Bastjan (St. Sebastian), for example, had been first built in the 15th century while San Bert (Saint Bartholomew) is of unknown antiquity. The Vitorja (Nativity) church known as ta'Casha (1550), which retains its old cemetery, and that of St. Lucy and St. Nicholas, which was previously made up of two different churches (hence the double dedication), were both rebuilt circa 1700. (...) (...) Quite interesting are the wayside chapels outside the town's centre. Lunzjata Church (1418, modified 1570), which gives its name to the nearby cliffs, forms part of the oldest Carmelite friary in Malta. In the same general area is St. Catherine (1500 and 1639). Known as tad-Dahla (At the Entrance), this is one of those chapels that still bear the 18th century inscription non gode l'immunità ecclesias. (No right of sanctuary). Not exactly a 'wayside' chapel, since it is located in the midst of fields, is a Siculo-Norman structure in the small district of Gnien is-Sultan (King's Garden). It is dedicated to St. Michael with the unusual title of is-sincier (the sincere one), but this has been corrupted to San Cir (St. Cyr)... (...) Hospitals are an old tradition in Rabat and Santu Spirtu predates the Knights' historic infirmaries in Birgu and Valletta. It served as a hospital for over 600 years, closing in 1968 and reopening as the National Archives. Another historic hospital, ta' Saura (1639), is currently being used as a rest house. Like its round church of St. Nicholas, this is named in recognition of Dr. Nikola Saura, a principal donor. (...) (...) When the Knights arrived in Malta in 1530, they brought with them several religious items. Among these was a venerated statue of a saint, probably St. John the Almoner. Philippe Villiers de l'Isle Adam, Malta's first grand master, donated it to the confraternity of St. Joseph. Through this society, the ruler developed a deep affection for Rabat, such that he chose to die there. A marble plaque in the Friary of the Minor Observants next tota' Giezu indicates the room where he breathed his last. (...) (...) At the convergence of Wied Liemu and Wied il-Busbies is il-Fiddien . The name is another traditional one, standing for the amount of acreage that can be ploughed by two cows in a day, though that's just one interpretation. Near a little bridge there is one of a few remaining pre-World War II milestones with an emblem of King George V. The mileage and place names on these carved stones were erased during the war as a precaution. (...) (...) And Rabat extends even further in both time and distance. One of the loveliest excursions in Malta is a walk through the hidden village of Mtahleb and along its wied to a rugged inlet which, according to tradition, is a throwback to the 11th century. The scholarly translation of the name Mtahleb is 'Garden'. Indeed, past historians refer to the village as such. The mundane association is with the verb haleb (to milk). Among Mtahleb's products are the special Maltese cheeses, rikotta and gbejniet. Gbejniet are put out to dry in woven baskets called qwieleb (plural of qaleb). The qaleb and the gbejniet are very symbolic of day-to-day necessities. Losing both in Maltese idiom means losing everything. But then, another saying goes, ghall-maghmul m'hemmx kunsill (it's no use crying over spilt milk). (...) (...) Whatever happened in 1090, the Arabs remained in Malta till 1127, when the Normans firmly took over. But we can't leave this area without finishing the story of Count Roger. Tradition holds that before departing the northern prince tore a strip from his own flag and left it behind as a token of his esteem. His flag, half white and half red, became Malta's national colours - white for the lily, symbol of purity; red for the blood of Maltese martyrs. As we climb back to Mtahleb, we may see evidence of yet an earlier period. Metal pieces of bronze age fortifications cling to the edges of the plateau. (...) (...) In the vicinity of Fomm ir-Rih are the ruins of the westernmost fortifications along the Great Ridge and the Great Fault, a geologic fissure which runs across the entire island Building upon nature, the Knights of Malta started a series of fortifications which the British later connected into a defensive wall now known as Victoria Lines. A walk along these lines is another of Malta's great hiking opportunities. (...)
On April, 9, 1942, two German Luftwaffe pilots attacked ta' Qali airfield near Mosta. One of them dropped a bomb over Mosta dome. It was a precise hit. The pilot then was hit by anti-aircraft fire and drowned. The second pilot, Professor Felix Sauer, almost perished at sea himself in another raid only eight days after the attack on Mosta. He was rescued after a week in the water. A catholic, he lived with the remorse of seeing his colleague destroy a unique church. This remorse lasted 33 years. In 1975 he returned to Malta as a tourist and went to look at the ruins. Instead he found the majestic Mosta Dome, thirdlargest in the world, standing supreme. Had the Maltese built an exact replica? (...) (...) Mosta is the capital of the St. Maries for two reasons. First, its central location; the very name, previously Musta, is derived from an Arabicword for 'centre'. The second is its unusual church with an immense dome designed by Grognet de Vasse (1773-1862). This was built around the old church, which was kept in use until the outer dome was finished. The ceiling of the old church was the only scaffolding that was employed for the new dome, which is built in a series of concentric steps. Only when the dome was completed (1860) was the original church dismantled. This wasn't just a remarkable engineering feat but also a colossal act of faith. While the outside of the church is a monument to de Vasse, the interior is a memorial to Parish Priest Gio Maria Schembri, who for 26 years led the unparalleled effort. The high, spherical vault, blue except for the various heavenly scenes, represents the paradise into which Mosta's patron saint ascended. (...) (...) Throughout the middle ages, when the watercourse was much wetter than it is today, foreign corsairs often plundered their way up from Salina to Mosta either on foot or in small boats. In one of these strikes, the intruders chased their prey to a place marked today by ta' l-Isperanza Chapel. This is built directly over a cave where, the legend goes, a young shepherdess sought refuge from the marauding pirates. As the girl fervently invoked Our Lady's intercession, the assailants arrived. But, before they could lay their hands on her, a giant cobweb covered the cave's opening, scaring the predators away. With the enemy at a safe distance, the tiny 'spidergirl' simply removed the cobweb and walked out. And that, according to this beautiful legend, was the reason for the building of this second chapel of the valley (rebuilt in or before 1760). (...) (...) The modern history of Mosta begins at the turn of the 17th century. The Knights of Malta, fully recovered from the rigours of the Great Siege (1565), have embarked upon building a nation of coastal cities and country towns. They make a large number of grants to people wishing to build homes in this desirable area. (...)
One of the first pages of Naxxar's tenacious history is inscribed in the rocky ridge that straddles Malta's bulging belly just south of the Great Fault. V-shaped incisions up to 60 cm deep into the hard limestone testify to the presence of the Naxxar man thousands of years ago. Fine examples of these parallel grooves in the ground, or cart ruts, can be seen near the great bend of Naxxar Gap. The geography of the steep ridge that divides the island in half probably inspired the name Naxxar (nush-shar). A similar Arabic word means 'to divide or cut'. The sharp cut is accentuated today by the Victoria Lines, a defensive wall built along the ridge in the 19th century. The origin of Naxxar's name may also have connections with St. Paul. One possibility is the word nasra (Christianity). When St. Paul was shipwrecked in AD 60, Naxxar may have been the first place he visited. The village's motto Prior Credidi (First to Believe) defends this claim. Another interpretation is the word naxar (to hang clothes). According to a cute but unlikely explanation, Paul's wet clothes were hung out to dry at Naxxar. (...) (...) Such false clocks are common in Malta. The idea is to save the money of a second clock. The folksy story is that this serves to foil the devil's continuous attempts to disturb the congregation. Guarding against the devil is a time-honoured occupation which often involves various other asymmetries, such as dissimilar tassels on karozzini (horse-drawn coaches) and unequal horns. Horns are a long-standing protection against the evil eye. Another way to thwart the evil eye is untidiness, such as the encouragement of cobwebs, though, God forbid, not inside the house.(...) (...) Besides the Sorrows, several other passion statues are carried during the Good Friday pageant. The Ecce Homo (Jesus crowned with thorns), the Redeemer (Christ with Cross), and il-Monument (Jesus laid to rest) were among the early statues. Though some of the originals exist, what today's bystander sees unfurling past the handsome Naxxar houses are modern replacements. The practice of penitents carrying chains, still pursued, was already a regular feature in 1761. Also part of the 18th century procession were musical instruments and, less appropriately, fireworks. (...) (...) The naxxarin are also very industrious, with a fine reputation in stone quarrying. Naxxar stands on one of the best limestone beds in Malta, where there are basically two types - tal-qawwi (hard coralline) and tal-franka (globigerina). The latter is softer and easier to work although it, too, hardens after it is exposed to the elements. Except for the northern area, Naxxar is practically surrounded by globigerina quarries. Throughout the centuries, Naxxar has also claimed fine seamen, cotton farmers, and craftsmen in wood and metal. Naxxar's artisans still run several shops in the village centre. (...)
(...) Gharghur is an old farming community and its produce has made its way to the tables of Maltese families for centuries. One of the traditional cries of street vendors is tewm ta' Hal Gharghur (garlic from Gharghur). Standing as a remnant of the past is a 17th century windmill tower on top of a hill at Number 2, Triq il-Mithna (Mill Street), where it once ground wheat for bread. This is now a private residence. The early history of the village came to light in 1955 as a result of an accidental find near Gharghur's centre (across the street from the church of St. John the Baptist). This revealed an important Roman settlement, including a large olive pipper made from a solid round stone. (...) (...) Another St. Mary church was built in 1560 as a votive offering after a girl was reportedly cured of a disease in a miraculous way. The girl lived to tell Monsignor Dusina about her experience. Rebuilt betwen 1650 and 1656 by Tumas Dingli, the church is known as taz-Zellieqa (slippery slide) for an old ramp now replaced by steps and displays the 18th century sign non gode l'immunità ecclesiastica (No right of ecclesiastical asylum). Beautifully situated over one of Gharghur's wadis, it is in the company of another historic building. Il-Palazz tal-Kmand (Lieutenant's House) dates from 1803. (...)
Just a few decades ago there was a vacant valley sloping down from the Great Ridge to the central lowlands. Between the sizable population of the ridge (Mosta, Naxxar and Gharghur) and the large metropolis of the lowlands (Attard, Balzan, Birkirkara, Lija and Qormi), there were only a few farms, such as the distinctive razzett l-ahmar (red farm). The fertile area was sought by hunters and trappers. The air was redolent with the hardy rosemay plant and carob tree. The carobs ripened in August, around the time of the major festa of St. Helen in Birkirkara, after which several people went to the valley to collect carobs for their animals. Then it happened. It was bound to happen. The area was opened up for housing development. The first house was built in 1957-8 for Dr. Francis Zammit at the intersection of Triq Naxxar, Triq G. Curmi and Triq L. Mizzi. The doctor was supervising his new property when the telephone people dropped by to install a new line. They asked for an address. The house didn't have one yet. The men couldn't perform their job without an address. So the doctor looked around and the first thing he noticed was a lewza (almond tree). There and then he named his house Dar il-Lewza, and that was good enough for the workers. The house, the tree, and the name are still there. The doctor too. (...) (...) The higher part of the valley offers some vantage points, fact not overlooked by developers. As a result, one finds several expansive and expensive villas. This area is closer to the ridge communities and has yet to integrate with the lower valley, which remains tied closely with Lija. The lower valley has the history, the city blocks, even a few shops. The upper part has only spacious houses. But the two sections share something besides representation in the village council. They share a desire to maintain their village as a quiet, residential area. (...)
San Gwann is a town in the making. Fragmented communities with a combined population of 2,000 seceded from Birkirkara and San Giljan to set up a new parish (1965) and a new town (1968). Despite the parish status, however, sections of these communities have yet to switch from their long-established loyalties outside San Gwann (St. John). (...) (...)Thus far even some ancient cart ruts, those mysterious rail-like routes that are so common in the countryside, have survived here. Just barely. The housing boom of the eighties came very close to obliterating them. A small park around them would provide the protection they so richly deserve. (...) (...)Il-Kappara is named for the Maltese caper. This is not some funny frolic but an exotic, bittersweet vegetable that grows on hillsides near the sea. Modern houses with views of the harbour align the hill where capers used to grow. This is the least integrated of the San Gwann communities. Most of il-kapparin worship in a different town (Gzira) and consider their borough separate from San Gwann. (...) What none of the districts had until 1959 was a large church that could serve as a central place of worship. The Capuchin branch of the Franciscan order moved into the area in 1947 to correct that situation. The combined population at that time was only around 1,500. But, within six years, ground was broken for a church patterned after the Basilica of San Paolo Fuori le Mura in Rome. The Capuchins commissioned paintings and statues honouring, among others, their patron (St. Francis) and the titular (Our Lady of Lourdes) (...)
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Copyright © 1998 Michael Riccioli All Rights Reserved
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