At one point in the 16th century, a majority of Gozitans were living in Constantinople. Many of Gozo's 6,000 residents were captured during a well-manned and well-planned Turkish attack in 1551. A race that had thrived on the hills of Gozo since prehistoric times was almost completely dislocated in a matter of hours. One of the tales of that raid recounts the fate of Bernardo DeOpuo, who killed his wife and daughters rather than allow them to be hauled into slavery and then died fiercely fighting the invaders. A copy of an inscription dated 1579 indicates DeOpuo's house in the Gozo Citadel. Its original is in the Archaeology Museum a hundred yards away. (...) (...) The citadel's history draws remarkable parallels with Mdina, its counterpart on the main island, which was likewise built in the centre of its island and unable to defend the coast. After the Arabs (870-1127) reduced the size of both walled cities, Gozo's citadel and Malta's Mdina became islands of aristocrats among a sea of commoners. Both steadily lost residents and their population now is only a small fraction of that enjoyed by their 'suburbs', which are both called Rabat. The citadel has fewer buildings than Mdina, and its streets are akin to country lanes. But, like Mdina, it is a magnet of interest. No other fortified city in the world is so replete with antiquities. (...) (...) The area in front of this priory is known as Fuq it-Tomba (The Tombs). Don Bosco Oratory (1949) and a stone cross now stand on the site of an Angevin Cemetery dating to 1270. Some of the rich slabs and coats of arms from that cemetery have been repaired to the Gozo Museum of Archaeology and to the Augustinian priory. In 1270, an ill-fated crusade ordered by Charles of Anjou ended with the storm-battered ships stopping at Gozo on their way back. Dysentery killed many of those who had survived the battle and many bodies, including those of several leaders, had to be left behind. (...) (...) St. George's church, which in 1506 was already the parish church of the Lower Town, has on occasion eclipsed the main parish church (the cathedral). In 1840, for example, sculptor Pietru Pawl Azzopardi (1791-1875) produced the first-ever titular statue for Gozo - a rococo statue of St. George carved out of a tree trunk. The long-awaited icon was greeted at Mgarr Harbour and accompanied to Rabat amid gun salutes of hunters and deafening cheers of the crowd. Every year, on the 3rd Sunday in July, the parishioners try to outdo the commotion of their ancestors. After days of prayer and preparation, band rehearsals and street decorations, the grand procession with the revered statue makes its way out of the grandiose church. A thunder of fireworks and fanfare of the marching band accompany the appearance of St. George crushing a green dragon with his gilded sandals. (...) (...) Another important Gozitan institution is the Gozo Archives, which includes the main branch of the Public Library. Here is the famous Melitensia collection with more than 3,000 books published over the past five centuries. Maltese literature owes much to rabtin such as Ganni Vassallo, founder of Maltese orthography (his house is a mere 20 metres from the library), and Ninu Cremona (1880-1972), a multi-talented philologist. Indeed, Rabat's sons figure prominently among Malta's leaders, Chief Justice Sir Mikelang Refalo (1876-1923) being one. (...) (...) It-Tokk, another market site and main hub of the island, is often in a jovial mood, particularly when hosting the carnival parade in February. But its World War II memorial portrays a somber face. WW2 wreaked far less damage on Gozo than it did on Malta. Bomb shelters, such as the ones by Wied Sara on the road to Zebbug, are not as numerous as on the main island. Actually, many main islanders spent years in Rabat as refugees. Among them was Gio Batta Delia, a leading furniture maker from Bormla. Delia's gratitude for Rabat's hospitality is shown in a high relief of Our Lady and a statue of St. Joseph carved out of Gozitan limestone. This is located at Rabat's western boundary and is one of about fifty niches within the limits of the city. (...)
(...) Kercem is mysteriously ancient. Il-Mixta, one of its hills, is the probable site of the first human settlement in the Maltese Islands 7,000 years ago. Other than that, very little is known of Kercem's beginnings and name. Even its emblem, a simple design with three circles, seems to be lost in unexplained imagery. Its motto, flectar non frangar (bent but not broken), likewise begs some kind of tribute. Until 1968, there was one day in the year when tribute did flow down Kercem road. On March 12, feast day of St. Gregory, a pilgrimage under the auspices of the diocese of Gozo left the Cathedral en route to the parish church of Kercem (Kerc rhymes with 'church', em reads like the letter M). (...) (...) Kercem's yesteryears also linger at an inland tower, a windmill tower (at the border with Ghasri), and old houses displaying the oriental half-moon on their stone balconies. Earlier in time we find the catacombs of Ghar Gerduf, also known as l-Ghar tal-Mara l-Bajda (White Lady's Cave). Sightings of the woman in white, a mainstay in Gozitan folklore, are among the ghost stories associated with these burial chambers, which are among Malta's earliest hypogea. The most romantic part of the village is Wied tal-Lunzjata, a fertile mini-valley which it shares with Rabat. At the wied's banks are natural springs such as Ghajn Tuta, which is reached via a steep incline. This is named for the mulberry tree, which is plentiful in these parts. Santa Lucija is Kercem's little, and much older, sister village. It has 300 of Kercem's 1,400 people. This tiny outpost has its own defensive tower, even if in dire ruins, and its own windmill tower. The villagers take pride in the small but comely church of St. Lucy, which is introduced by an old stone cross. It was built in 1657 and served as Kercem's parish church between 1848 and 1851. It was enlarged in 1950 and three years later Guzeppi Briffa executed its fine paintings depicting the martyrdom of St. Lucy. A little celebration is organized in honour of St. Lucy in late autumn. This unlikely locale is the birthplace of Gozo's most enduring social event. Santa Lucija was the home of l-Orkestra tad-Dudi, a musical band which dominated Gozo's social life for more than a hundred years, including all of the 19th century. The dudi, with their violins, bass and cymbals, travelled all over Gozo doing graduations, weddings, and other parties at a time when this kind of entertainment was in its infancy. (...)
Many people in Malta and possibly some in Gozo are only vaguely familiar with San Lawrenz, a small village removed from the beaten path. But San Lawrenz(pronounced similar to 'some low rents') has a lot to offer. Westernmost village of the Maltese Islands, it drops from the highest to the lowest spots in Gozo amid some of the most dramatic geological and archeological sights. Some of the 500 people live in 17th century houses that offer a unique charm, perhaps because of the elliptical arches behind the weathered stone balconies. Good examples are found in Triq Wied Merill. Others live in brand new houses that carry the tradition of stone sculptures in their balconies and doorways. Often new houses are built adjacent to the much older ones. Here one can see not only the artistry but also the virgin stone of San Lawrenz. Active quarries lie west and south of the village proper. (...) (...) As a hilltop village San Lawrenz may be tiny, but its long coastline is an intriguing one that records life during various epochs, from that of the Knights to prehistory. Cart ruts, long thought to be absent from western Gozo, exist at Qawra. Remains of a Carthaginian temple complex in use between 300 BC and 100 AD survive at tal-Harrux, where graffiti in a rock-cut cave portray a hermit at prayer. And there is a Roman Tomb at Dwejra Bay which, popular with bathers, derives its fame from a singular rock that shelters it. Few rocks can claim the historical prominence of this 65-metre high megalith known as Gebla tal-General (General's Rock) or Fungus Rock. The importance comes from a minute plant that has been mistaken for a fungus. Botanically known as Cynomorium Coccineum, the mysterious red plant with tiny flowers was once believed to have great healing powers. It was applied to cure internal bleeding, stop vomiting, relieve blood pressure, control menses, treat dysentery and venereal disease, etc. and was used as a contraception and even as a toothpaste, in short a panacea thought to exist nowhere in the world except for this strange-looking rock. (...) (...) One of the most interesting formations in the whole archipelago is it-Tieqa taz-Zerqa (Blue Window). Accessible both by boat and on foot, this natural doorway resembling a giant prehistoric dolmen is a favourite of professional photographers. In the area there are also several salt pans (troughs to retrieve salt from sea-water). Standing as it does along these intriguing western limits, this window serves as symbol of the Maltese coastal wilderness. It is the final outpost of San Lawrenz and the last frontier of a nation that is much bigger than its size.
(...) The current parish church, also dedicated to the Visitation, lies but a few hundred metres away and shares the village square with a stone cross. It is a beautiful church in the form of a Greek cross and with a striking concave facade. As a baroque opus, intricate sculpture isn't lacking. Carved around the main door are the symbols of Faith, Hope, and Charity. Nor does the church have any shortage of historic paintings and artifacts. The oil painting behind the main altar was donated by Grand Master de Vilhena and the baptismal font is a 15th century artifact retrieved from the rubble of the cathedral of Mdina, in Malta, after the earthquake of 1693. The titular statue (1853) portrays St. Mary and St. Elizabeth conferring about the upcoming birth of Jesus. Executed by Guzeppi Vella (1802-66), who is better known as Mastru Pepp (Master Joe), the twice-gilded statue cost 200 skudi (50 U.S. dollars). It is taken out in procession at the end of the village festa (1st Sunday of July). Other processions honour Our Lady under other titles as well as St. Joseph and the Blessed Sacrament. This church is one of the two Gharb churches that enjoy basilica privileges. The other, ta'Pinu Basilica, is the subject of Gharb's greatest miracle.The story goes back to a medieval church looked after by Filippino (Pinu) Gauci. Several times this building was condemned, but each time divine will prevailed. In 1575 the church was scheduled to be demolished but, according to tradition, the man who gave the first pickax blow broke his arm in so doing. The church was again ordered closed in 1654 by Bishop Balaguer but was reopened after a providential grant allowed it to be restored in 1676. The miracle happened on June 22, 1883, to Karmni Grima, a 45-year old spinster who worked at a nearby farm. As she walked across the fields she heard the Maltese words ejja, ejja (come in). The words came from a voice inside the church. 'Do come in today', the voice repeated, "for it will be another year before you will be able to return". Karmni Grima (1838-1922) became very sick after this incident, and it was a full year before she was able to return to the little church. (...)
(...) With 339 people, Ghasri is Gozo's smallest parish and village. And one of the most traditional. Like neighbouring Zebbug, with which it formed part till 1921, Ghasri probably owes its name to the olive industry. One of the usages of the verb ghasar (to press) refers to a squeezing process producing olive oil, an ancient enterprise. The emblem of l-Ghasri (pronounced like the first parts of Lhasa and Riyadh ) consists of three olive trees and three olive presses. The village motto declares that its accomplishments are ex labore fructus (the fruit of its labour). Quiet Ghasri comes alive once a year for its annual festa of Corpus Christi (Body of Christ). This is a devout observance in every town and village but a titular feast at Ghasri alone. Festa day is celebrated on the Sunday following Trinity Sunday, or two Sundays after Pentecost, and this normally means the early part of June. Other processions are held for Our Lady of Sorrows (one week before Good Friday), St. Joseph the Worker (May 1), and the Sacred Heart of Jesus (June). Corpus Christi (Body of Christ) is the veneration of the Holy Eucharist, one of the great mysteries of the Catholic faith. Because the object of worship is a divine mystery, rather than a sculpturable idol, designing a suitable titular statue was a challenge. So much so that until 1982 the village was the only parish in Gozo without one. (...) (...) From here down to the coast it is a placid grace along the wied which, at its confluence with the sea, becomes a fjord-like gorge. This pleasant scene can be viewed from the hill which is home to the first lighthouse ever to be built in Gozo. Known as ta' Gordan, it surveys the north shore from an altitude of 180 metres. In 1667, its first year, it was just a small beacon. But it served the purpose of guiding the ships that frequented the picturesque inlets. Under British governor William Reid, a large oil lantern was supplied (1853). This flashed at intervals with the help of a revolving reflector. 1857 saw the building of the new 21-metre-high lighthouse, whose 23 gasoline lamps remained in place till 1963. A new electric device now supplies a lamp with such an intensity that its beacon stretches over a radius of over fifty kilometres. No matter how modern this lighthouse becomes, however, it will always shed an alluring rhyme, like the verse that Gabriele d'Annunzio devoted to it in one of his poems. (...)
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Copyright © 1998 Michael Riccioli All Rights Reserved
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