(...) Except for the coastal portions of Qbajjar and Marsalforn, iz-zebbugin actually live on two hills connected by a narrow strip of land. The land drops abruptly all around. Perhaps this can best be experienced along the road to Qbajjar. It is said that Field Marshall Lord Gort, Governor of Malta during part of World War II, was once driven along this road. Remarked his lordship "I have never been so afraid on the battlefield as I was while driving down this hill". Even though it is now paved, some wouldnít drive it on a rainy day without first saying a prayer. Zebbug, one will find out, is a prayer. Another steep hill at Zebbug is the flat-topped ta' Kuljat, which contains some bronze age silo pits. These flat-topped hills are quite common in Malta and Gozo. Many of them seem to have been settled during the bronze age. The area between this hill and Qbajjar to the north contains many Punic and prehistoric tombs. Zebbug excels. The villagers are known for the high quality of their bizzilla (lace), nsig (weaving), and woollen blankets. Their religious values are untarnished, as judged for example from the high priority given to the maintenance of street niches. But what really sets Zebbug apart is the fine onyx that was dug out of its quarries in the 1980s. This was actually discovered in 1738, but the material was believed to be alabaster until samples were sent to an institute of mineralogy in Florida by two Gozitan priests, Professor Joseph Bezzina and Florida resident Tony Mercieca. The onyx transformed the parish church of Zebbug into a dazzling array of artistic sculptures. One simply cannot but be awed by the consummate altar, pulpit, font and other superb onyx works. (...) (...) The most unique event is one known as tal-Ghazziela, which honours the Holy Name of Mary. Working with donated flour, the women of the village make hundreds of round pastries with an M, for Mary, in the middle. On the first Sunday of August, the arch priest blesses these pastries called ghazziela and passes them along to the parishioners. After taking part in a procession with the pastries, the people hang them behind the main doors as symbols of protection against wars and natural disasters. (...) (...) Included with Zebbug is a good portion of Gozo's north shore, which is characterized by scenic inlets, natural bluffs and man-made salt pans. At Wied il-Ghasri, one of the islandís beauty spots, quaint boat shelters align the narrow canyon, which also offers a small sandy beach. On the east side of this inlet we find the first concentration of salt pans (flat troughs cut into the rock to reclaim salt from the sea via an evaporation process). Many of these are hand-dug and date from the 18th century. (...)
South Americans have their amazons, and Scandinavians their valkyries, but Gozitans have a whole array of superwomen. These include the sea-nymph Calypso, the mysterious 'White Lady', and the Giantess. It was perhaps Homer who fostered the giant myth. As the great Greek writer romanticized over the peoples of the Mediterranean, his poetic imagination ran into various monsters. But when he wrote his epic poem Odyssey (around 750 BC), the giants of Gozo had already done their work, erecting Torri tal-Gganti (Tower of Giants) upon Xaghra hill around 3500 BC. The archaeological complex is now known as Ggantija (the first G is soft, the second hard). It is truly a gargantuan endeavour. Not only are the stones huge, up to 6 metres wide and nearly as high, but also some of the inner decorative ones are of the globigerina (tal-franka ) type of limestone which is not found in the area. (...) (...) Maltese prehistory has been divided into three epochs - Neolithic, Temple, and Bronze Age. The temple period is further broken into five categories, the middle of which (3600-3000 BC) takes the Ggantija name. The Guinness Book of World Records has declared Ggantija, together with Skorba on the main island, as the oldest known free-standing structure in the world. (...) (...) The fair village of Xaghra is situated on a plateau across a valley from the Citadel of Gozo, with which it once shared a parish. The middle hill in a series of three depicted on the Gozo banner, Xaghra (pronounced shah-rah) means 'plateau'. It was previously known as Xaghret il-Ghazzenin (Idlers' Plateau) and il-Qacca (highest place). The latter was often given an Italian spelling and sound - Caccia ('cut-cha'). This happens to be an Italian word meaning 'hunting'. And Xaghra happens to be a historic hunting area. In 1695, Grand Master Adrien de Wignacourt decreed the area his personal hunting grounds and heavy punishments were meted to those caught with any hunting tools or dogs. The traditional emblem of Xaghra is dominated by a bird. Like the bird, the village motto is librat et evolat (Poised and Soaring). (...) (...) The saddest period in the history of Xaghra is the plague of 1814. Along a steep road aptly called is-Sellum (The Ladder) is a niche dating from that year. Situated in the middle of Gozo (the exact centre, some say), it has been maintained since its erection by contributions from every part of the island. At one point, the collections were entrusted to a man who was deaf and mute, and hence known as il-Mutu. This man made his solicitations wearing a cotton-weaved horga (bag) and clanging on a tin can. When he died, his can was used as a drinking cup by mute children. The little shrine, one of almost 50 street niches in Xaghra, is known to this day as in-Nicca tal-Mutu. Dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, this niche was granted a forty-day indulgence by Bishop Mattei in 1822, as stated in an inscription. This means that the faithful who recite the designated prayer in front of the image get a forty-day reprieve from purgatory. (...)
(...) By 1720 a beautiful area known as il-Buskett (Little Forest) had become the site for the celebration of l-Imnarja (lim-nar-ya) on June 29. The name of this festival is derived from luminaria (illumination). People from all parts of Gozo convened for the horse races, picnics and other merry-making activities. It was especially popular with honeymooners. The Nadur tradition parallels that of Rabat, Malta, where Mnarja festivities complete with horse races are still held at a place also called il-Buskett. (...) (...) Dahlet Qorrot is a charming fishing cove with snorkeling-perfect waters. Some of its many caves and ledges underneath the cliffs have been converted into boat shelters and even summer retreats for people who love a serene spot. (...) (...) Nadur hill, a mile away and almost 160 metres aloft, never needed to be fortified. The naked eye of watchful sentries could spot any danger in time to get the needed help. The village's motto confirms that with one word: vigilat (Vigilant). To be sure, there is a tower atop the craggy heights of Nadur, where a lonely gun still points at beautiful Mgarr harbour. But Kenuna Tower is not a defensive one. It was built in 1848 as a telegraph link between Malta and Gozo. Many other historic buildings survive at Nadur, where taí Sufa Windmill tower serves as a token of more agrarian times where there is the only Gozitan memento of the mayoral institution of the late 18th and early 19th century - relatives of the last colonial mayor still live in a part of id-Dar tas-Sindku (the Mayor's House). Also at Nadur is the first school outside the capital of Rabat (1842). Just three metres from the south sacristy of the basilica, this is surmounted by a niche. On the feast day of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (July 16), this niche is serenaded by the village band and accoladed by lights, fireworks, and a gathered crowd. There are about 20 street niches in Nadur, some quite elaborate, others embellish the façades of houses and small businesses. The grand tower of Nadur is not one of guns, even though two old cannons stand guard at the magnificent entrance. A village square in lieu of a moat and a stone cross in place of a sentinel, the true strengths of Nadur are embodied in its huge basilica. Nadur became a parish of 400 people in 1688, when it comprised the eastern third of Gozo ( Nadur, Qala, Ghajnsielem, Mgarr Harbour and Comino Island). The historic shrine of the Immaculate Conception at Qala was chosen to serve as parish church temporarily while work was started on a bigger church on Nadur Hill. Three centuries after the parish was established, the dispute still goes on about whether it was Nadur or Qala that was proclaimed a parish by Bishop Cocco Palmeri. Both villages have streets named for the day that the parish was established (April 28, 1688). In 1988, both localities celebrated the 300th anniversary with unyielding pride. The choice of the location for a new parochial church is the subject of the pious legend of Girgor Buttigieg. Girgor was a farmer accredited with saintly visions and prophetic powers. He could even, according to one account, predict the outcome of horse races and he would confide with bettors if they promised to donate their winnings to the church! Such was the respect enjoyed by Girgor that the parish priest entrusted him with the choice of the site for the new church. The farmer blindfolded his donkey, loaded him with the foundation stone, and let the animal loose. Girgor followed the donkey with a cross and a prayer book. Despite the weight of the rock, the donkey walked toward the highest point of the village. (...)
(...) Were a bridge to be constructed between Malta and Gozo, as is proposed from time to time, the likely end-point on the Gozitan side would be Qala. Qala is the farthest village from Gozo's capital and the closest to the rest of the Maltese archipelago. The rocky hillsides of Qala have an unobstructed view of the islands of Malta and Comino. Breathtaking scenes can be enjoyed, among other places, from the Qala Belvedere and from the small courtyard in front of a church dedicated to the Immaculate Conception but known as Santa Marija tal-Blat (Saint Mary of the Rocks). This church faces Comino and it is said that it was built so the people of that island could follow mass from across the straits when rough weather precluded a priest from going there. (...) (...) Despite this proximity, Qala's contact with the other islands is practically invisible. Occupying the easternmost corner of Gozo, Qala is clearly off the beaten path. Still, hordes of tourists descend upon this traditional village of 444 families to see the villageís prehistoric remains and its 19th century windmills. There was a time when the windmill was a common sight. Until late in the 19th century there was no better way to grind wheat and barley into flour. But steam mills brought one windmill after another to a halt. Qala Windmill is the best preserved one in the country. The tower of a second windmill, known as ta' Sufa, also survives. (...) (...) Qala's history goes back nearly 6,000 years. Several temple period and Punico-Roman pottery have been gathered, with potentially more still lying about. It is possible that il-Gebla l-Wieqfa (Standing Rock), Qalaís most important prehistoric specimen, may have been the cornerstone of a temple. A rough pyramid, this is an 11-foot high megalith known in Gozitan mythology as the seat of the giantess. (...) (...) A walk along the ruts takes one past an old deffuna, a stone used to crush pottery into powder for building purposes. The ruts continue amidst a forest of wild thyme and xkattapietra, a plant unique to Malta and named for its use as treatment for stones in the gallbladder (xkatta break, pietra stone). The ruts end near another group of megalithic structures and, of course, another great view of Comino. Amid prehistoric sites that are too numerous to document lies the Qala Sanctuary, one of Gozo's most sacred shrines. The site of this church has been graced by a Christian monument since times unknown. Tradition holds that Count Roger, who is credited with liberating the Maltese from Muslim rule in 1091, used to pray in it. Adjacent to the church is a cemetery whose origins are likewise buried in antiquity. An early 20th century milepost serves as a marker for the cemetery. (...) (...) Among the part-legendary, part-historic refugees of Qala is San Kerrew (St. Corrado). This holy man, who lived in the 15th century, did not need a bridge to cross to Qala. Chased away from Malta because of his strict moral standards, Kerrew simply rolled out his mantle and crossed over the sea. Once in Qala, he resumed his life as a hermit and a prophet, correctly foretelling, among other things, the coming of the Knights and the building of Valletta. Another story, this one from Sicily, even claims that St. Corrado of Noto once crossed over to that island, his mantle again providing the transportation. This could of course be a different Corrado, but the similarities are compelling. A weekly recitation used to be held in front of a shrine in Noto: Sancte Corrade, qui de Melita in Siciliam sicco vestigio pertransisti, ora pro nobis (St. Corrado, who crossed to Sicily from Malta without wetting your feet, pray for us). (...)
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Copyright © 1998 Michael Riccioli All Rights Reserved
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