A four-part series
By Charles Fiott
Published by the Conventual Franciscans of Rabat (Religjon u Hajja), Malta - 1994
(Excerpts)
Books 1-2-3-4
- Book 1: The Twin Harbour Area
- Book 2: The South
- Book 3: The North
- Book 4: Gozo
1. Ghansielem 2. Xewkija 3. (Ta') Sannat 4. Munxar 5. Triq Tal-Ghajn 6. Rabat (Victoria) 7. Kercem 8. San Lawrenz
9. Gharb 10. Ghasri 11. Zebbug 12. Xaghra 13. Nadur 14. Qala
1.GHAJNSIELEM
(...) From its lofty position, St. Mary's Tower controlled the movements of pirates headed for Blue Lagoon and other areas. It was manned by 130 men, who had 18 guns at their disposal. Communication with similar towers in the islands of Malta and Gozo was conducted with flags during the day and fires at night. An appeal for help could be answered in a few hours, a feat not always equalled by modern systems. (...)
(...) Luzzijiet in all the villages portray the eyes of the Phoenician god Osiris. This god has long been called upon to provide enough fish and to protect the occupants from storms. Osiris survived the Christianity of St. Paul and the Muslim era. But, to be on the safe side, a statue of St.Andrew also is at hand. St. Andrew is the patron saint of fishermen and his likeness graces several fishing villages in Malta and Gozo. (...)
(...) The dream was to build another Valletta. Not just a fort on a bluff, but a full-fledged citadel. An effort was made to sell land to the public so houses could be built inside the fortress. But, by that time, fear of attacks from the sea had subsided and Fort Chambrai never became a city. In its 250-year life, the fort experienced only one brief military adventure. In 1798, it defended Gozo against Chambrai's own countrymen, the revolutionary forces of General Bonaparte. (...)
(...) The harbour is dominated by a gothic church that fits Mgarr hill like a royal crown but whose existence may be owed to a mundane traveller. In 1879, it is said, some visitor pointed out that the rocks of the hill were similar to the Grotto of Massabielle in Lourdes, France. At that time Lourdes was Christianity's foremost pilgrim site. Only 21 years had passed since young Bernardette Soubirois was honoured with visions of Our Lady. So the pious mgarrin could not take such a remark lightly. A statue of Our Lady of Lourdes soon appeared in the rocks. The church itself was finished nine years later. Soon after World War II ended, an artistic marble altar was added to the imposing Lourdes Church, whose parvis commands splendid views of the harbour.
The rocks of Mgarr may or may not resemble those of Lourdes, but the message is the same. For faith and love reside next door at Lourdes Home, a matching building. This is an orphanage run by the Dominican sisters and brought to fruition by an exceptional lady, Guzeppa Debono. This dedicated woman was born in 1883, the year Our Lady made another earthly visit, this time to ta' Pinu in Gozo. Spurning marriage in favour of the needy, Guzeppa became the mama of several more children than she could have mothered biologically. A list of the home's supporting visitors include ex-President Censu Tabone, himself a Gozitan, and Britain's Prince Charles. (...)
(...) Borg Gharib contains megalithic slabs as large as ten feet but with no discernible shape or form. According to one theory, it is one in a series of temples that were in visual contact with each other, ta' l-Imramma to the west and Qala to the east each being less than two miles away. The 7,000 years of human existence in Gozo are presented in a state-of-the-art show at Gozo Heritage on the main road to Rabat. (...)
In contrast with its archaeological sites, Ghajnsielem's churches are not among Gozo's oldest. The old parish church dedicated to Our Lady of Loreto was built between 1810 and 1820. This is one of several Gozitan locations associated with visions of the 'White Lady'. Legend credits Anglu Grech, a pious farmer, with receiving directions from the Virgin Mary to build a church in the vicinity of Salem's Spring. The church, which has an attractive altar piece by native Gozitan Mikiel Busuttil (1750-1828), was enlarged in 1877. In 1913-14 it was embellished with other paintings by Giuseppe Calì(1846-1930).
The parvis shares the church square with the canonica (parish house), a pre-war milepost, and a corner niche dedicated to Our Lady of Safe Harbour. One of about fifteen street niches in the village, this is the one that was transferred from Mgarr Harbour in 1862.
2. XEWKIJA
Xewkija is 'A Place where Thorns Grow' and rocks speak. There is an acre in Xewkija (show-key-ya) that would like to tell of its long association with the supernatural. Thousands of years ago the Phoenician gods Astarte and Melqart dwelled in a megalithic temple known as Maqghad ix-Xejk (The Sheik's Chair). With the advent of the Romans, these gods were replaced by new tenants Venus, Diana, Apollo and Juno. These were in turn forced out after Paul of Tarsus converted the Maltese Islands to Christianity in AD 60.According to tradition, a congregation at Maqghad ix-Xejk heard Saint Paul preach from a distance of 12 miles in the main island. (...)
(...) About a third of some two dozen street niches and statues in Xewkija honour the patron saint and a few of these vie for the right to mark the starting point of the marching band program held in connection with the annual festa. The festa is scheduled so that the final day falls on the Sunday closest to June 24, St. John's liturgical day. St.John is the patron saint of the Knights of Malta, and his day has been acclaimed for several centuries. Tradition even holds that St. Paul's voice gave directions to dedicate the church to St. John and every Xewkija church built on this spot has honoured that direction. Unlike most other villages in its size range, Xewkija doesn't even have a secondary festa, though a few devotional processions are held throughout the year. St. Paul's voice is alive and well today, as are the buried monoliths that once housed Astarte and Venus. (...)
(...) The period of the Knights is characterized among other things by towers. A 17th century tower known as ta'Gorgun (after a knight named Gourgion) stood until 1943. It was dismantled by Americans stationed there during World War II to construct a temporary airstrip, which was used only once. An exact model of this tower is displayed at the Gozo Museum of Archaeology in Rabat. As for as the airstrip, it may yet become an airport. For now a heliport takes care of air communication between Gozo and Malta. (...)
(...) The last tower of Xewkija tells no time and carries no guns. An early 18th century windmill built during the reign of Grand Master Perellos was placed on top of an octagonal tower. (...)
(...) Many visitors to Gozo make a quick stop at Xewkija and speed away to Rabat. They see little, and they hear nothing. But if only they could walk inside the churches and towers, along Wied ta' Mgarr ix-Xini and ta' Lambert, they would see history unfold. They would hear the rocks. (...)
3. (TA')SANNAT
(...) Hunted out of the main island, the falcon managed to hang on to the steep cliffs of Gozo, particularly the narrow ledges of ta' Cenc, until the 1980s. But, even in this vertical world, the bird had to share its winged life with humans. Daredevils of the unusual kind, rod fishermen performed a spectacular flight of their own by suspending themselves from the cliff tops, their waists secured to a rope.For the Maltese Falcon, dinner came by much easier. It was an unmatched experience to watch this colourful bird dive with pinpoint accuracy and astounding speed to nab a victim in the shadow of the silent cliffs of ta' Cenc. For the wildlife enthusiast, the scene is the stuff dreams are made of. Yet it can be real. There is no reason why the peregrine cannot be reintroduced to such a perfect home. (...)
(...) Separating Sannat from Xewkija is a scenic gorge flowing to Mgarr ix-Xini (Galley Port), a beautiful inlet harbouring the early part of the era of the Knights of Malta. In 1551, the Turks attacked Gozo and carried away, by some accounts, the entire population into slavery. The Turks anchored their galley here, hence the name, boarding their human booty at Ras in-Newwiela (Transfer Point). But Gozo wasn't destined to become a ghost island. Some escaped while others were later ransomed.
The village itself is a quiet, out-of-the-way community of 1,300 people. Sannat is considered to be the principal lace-making village of the country. High in demand as Malta Lace is, Gozo Lace is even finer. And as the famous handmade bizzilla gets a little scarcer each year, it's in traditional villages like Sannat that one gets the best chance of watching a lady working on her pins and lace bobbins. Princess Elizabeth, the future Queen of England, had such an opportunity in 1951 when she stopped at tax-Xelina House, now renamed 'Lace House', to see Guzeppa Debrincat (nicknamed tax-Xelina) and other lace workers. (...)
4. MUNXAR
(...) Munxar, with its idyllic coastal resort of Xlendi, seems to be nature's experimental grounds. The name, an Arabic word meaning 'bucksaw', describes the rock formations of luscious Wied ix-Xlendi, an impressive gorge carved by a double watercourse that slopes down from the village to the Mediterranean. A picture of a bucksaw dominates the village's traditional emblem. Its motto - parvulus sed munitus (small but secure) recognizes the fact that it is a village of only 500 people.
Though forming part of Munxar, Xlendi has its own unofficial motto and an emblem emphasizing the harbour aspect: navium tutela (protection for vessels). It also has its own church, first built in 1868 but now four times its original size. It is dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel, and the letter M for Mary is the dominating feature of the emblem.
(...) A parish only since 1957, Munxar is lowest in seniority among Gozo's 15 parishes. It is a quiet village, its social calendar limited to a few religious processions. But that suits the munxarin fine. Perhaps the solace might have inspired the most prominent munxari, professor Guzè Aquilina (1911-1997), who excelled in oriental languages and is the meticulous author of one of the first comprehensive Maltese dictionaries.
(...) Xlendi Bay has been used as a harbour as far back as the Roman and Moorish times. Its shallow waters were then suitable for the size of the boats plying the Mediterranean. The name means 'boat' (Byzantine xelandion, Italian scalandio, Maltese Xini or Xwejni). (...)
5. TRIQ TAL-GHAJN (FONTANA)
(...) Triq tal-Ghajn is a suburb only in the sense that it has now become an extension of Rabat. It actually started out as a fishing village and the residents have always been fond of St. Andrew, patron saint of fishermen. Lacking a church, a small corner niche known as in-nicca tas-Salvatur (Christ the Savior) became the focus of the people's devotion. When the idea to build a church caught on late in the 19th century, the people lent their generous hands with the understanding that they would be able to name it after St. Andrew, their favourite saint, with is-Salvatur as an acceptable alternative. But Bishop Gwann Marija Camilleri, a devotee of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, turned both proposals down. When a parish church was declared in 1911, it was dedicated to the Sacred Heart. The symbolic heart even shows up on a traditional coat of arms.
That did not diminish the villagers' loyalty to St. Andrew, whose feast is still celebrated in November. But this is now a quiet affair, as are the other religious celebrations in honour of Our Lady of Rosary, Our Lady of Sorrows, and Corpus Christi.
The celebration of the Sacred Heart is instead a full-fledged festa ending on the Sunday between June 14 and 20. Lacking any open spaces, volunteers tear up the main street for the ground fireworks, which are among the best on the island. The main object of devotion is the titular statue made in 1923 and gilded in 1985. The papier-mâché statue is a masterful rendition of the love of Jesus, expressed with the aid of symbols - the heart, the chalice, and the cross - and with the carving skills of famed Gozitan statuary Wistin Camilleri (1885-1979). (...)
6. RABAT (VICTORIA)
At one point in the 16th century, a majority of Gozitans were living in Constantinople. Many of Gozo's 6,000 residents were captured during a well-manned and well-planned Turkish attack in 1551. A race that had thrived on the hills of Gozo since prehistoric times was almost completely dislocated in a matter of hours.
One of the tales of that raid recounts the fate of Bernardo DeOpuo, who killed his wife and daughters rather than allow them to be hauled into slavery and then died fiercely fighting the invaders. A copy of an inscription dated 1579 indicates DeOpuo's house in the Gozo Citadel. Its original is in the Archaeology Museum a hundred yards away. (...)
(...) The citadel's history draws remarkable parallels with Mdina, its counterpart on the main island, which was likewise built in the centre of its island and unable to defend the coast. After the Arabs (870-1127) reduced the size of both walled cities, Gozo's citadel and Malta's Mdina became islands of aristocrats among a sea of commoners. Both steadily lost residents and their population now is only a small fraction of that enjoyed by their 'suburbs', which are both called Rabat. The citadel has fewer buildings than Mdina, and its streets are akin to country lanes. But, like Mdina, it is a magnet of interest. No other fortified city in the world is so replete with antiquities. (...)
(...) The area in front of this priory is known as Fuq it-Tomba (The Tombs). Don Bosco Oratory (1949) and a stone cross now stand on the site of an Angevin Cemetery dating to 1270. Some of the rich slabs and coats of arms from that cemetery have been repaired to the Gozo Museum of Archaeology and to the Augustinian priory. In 1270, an ill-fated crusade ordered by Charles of Anjou ended with the storm-battered ships stopping at Gozo on their way back. Dysentery killed many of those who had survived the battle and many bodies, including those of several leaders, had to be left behind. (...)
(...) St. George's church, which in 1506 was already the parish church of the Lower Town, has on occasion eclipsed the main parish church (the cathedral). In 1840, for example, sculptor Pietru Pawl Azzopardi (1791-1875) produced the first-ever titular statue for Gozo - a rococo statue of St. George carved out of a tree trunk. The long-awaited icon was greeted at Mgarr Harbour and accompanied to Rabat amid gun salutes of hunters and deafening cheers of the crowd. Every year, on the 3rd Sunday in July, the parishioners try to outdo the commotion of their ancestors. After days of prayer and preparation, band rehearsals and street decorations, the grand procession with the revered statue makes its way out of the grandiose church. A thunder of fireworks and fanfare of the marching band accompany the appearance of St. George crushing a green dragon with his gilded sandals. (...)
(...) Another important Gozitan institution is the Gozo Archives, which includes the main branch of the Public Library. Here is the famous Melitensia collection with more than 3,000 books published over the past five centuries. Maltese literature owes much to rabtin such as Ganni Vassallo, founder of Maltese orthography (his house is a mere 20 metres from the library), and Ninu Cremona (1880-1972), a multi-talented philologist. Indeed, Rabat's sons figure prominently among Malta's leaders, Chief Justice Sir Mikelang Refalo (1876-1923) being one. (...)
(...) It-Tokk, another market site and main hub of the island, is often in a jovial mood, particularly when hosting the carnival parade in February. But its World War II memorial portrays a somber face. WW2 wreaked far less damage on Gozo than it did on Malta. Bomb shelters, such as the ones by Wied Sara on the road to Zebbug, are not as numerous as on the main island. Actually, many main islanders spent years in Rabat as refugees. Among them was Gio Batta Delia, a leading furniture maker from Bormla. Delia's gratitude for Rabat's hospitality is shown in a high relief of Our Lady and a statue of St. Joseph carved out of Gozitan limestone. This is located at Rabat's western boundary and is one of about fifty niches within the limits of the city. (...)
7. KERCEM
(...) Kercem is mysteriously ancient. Il-Mixta, one of its hills, is the probable site of the first human settlement in the Maltese Islands 7,000 years ago. Other than that, very little is known of Kercem's beginnings and name. Even its emblem, a simple design with three circles, seems to be lost in unexplained imagery. Its motto, flectar non frangar (bent but not broken), likewise begs some kind of tribute.
Until 1968, there was one day in the year when tribute did flow down Kercem road. On March 12, feast day of St. Gregory, a pilgrimage under the auspices of the diocese of Gozo left the Cathedral en route to the parish church of Kercem (Kerc rhymes with 'church', em reads like the letter M). (...)
(...) Kercem's yesteryears also linger at an inland tower, a windmill tower (at the border with Ghasri), and old houses displaying the oriental half-moon on their stone balconies. Earlier in time we find the catacombs of Ghar Gerduf, also known as l-Ghar tal-Mara l-Bajda (White Lady's Cave). Sightings of the woman in white, a mainstay in Gozitan folklore, are among the ghost stories associated with these burial chambers, which are among Malta's earliest hypogea.
The most romantic part of the village is Wied tal-Lunzjata, a fertile mini-valley which it shares with Rabat. At the wied's banks are natural springs such as Ghajn Tuta, which is reached via a steep incline. This is named for the mulberry tree, which is plentiful in these parts.
Santa Lucija is Kercem's little, and much older, sister village. It has 300 of Kercem's 1,400 people. This tiny outpost has its own defensive tower, even if in dire ruins, and its own windmill tower. The villagers take pride in the small but comely church of St. Lucy, which is introduced by an old stone cross. It was built in 1657 and served as Kercem's parish church between 1848 and 1851. It was enlarged in 1950 and three years later Guzeppi Briffa executed its fine paintings depicting the martyrdom of St. Lucy. A little celebration is organized in honour of St. Lucy in late autumn.
This unlikely locale is the birthplace of Gozo's most enduring social event. Santa Lucija was the home of l-Orkestra tad-Dudi, a musical band which dominated Gozo's social life for more than a hundred years, including all of the 19th century. The dudi, with their violins, bass and cymbals, travelled all over Gozo doing graduations, weddings, and other parties at a time when this kind of entertainment was in its infancy. (...)
8. SAN LAWRENZ
Many people in Malta and possibly some in Gozo are only vaguely familiar with San Lawrenz, a small village removed from the beaten path. But San Lawrenz(pronounced similar to 'some low rents') has a lot to offer. Westernmost village of the Maltese Islands, it drops from the highest to the lowest spots in Gozo amid some of the most dramatic geological and archeological sights.
Some of the 500 people live in 17th century houses that offer a unique charm, perhaps because of the elliptical arches behind the weathered stone balconies. Good examples are found in Triq Wied Merill. Others live in brand new houses that carry the tradition of stone sculptures in their balconies and doorways. Often new houses are built adjacent to the much older ones. Here one can see not only the artistry but also the virgin stone of San Lawrenz. Active quarries lie west and south of the village proper. (...)
(...) As a hilltop village San Lawrenz may be tiny, but its long coastline is an intriguing one that records life during various epochs, from that of the Knights to prehistory. Cart ruts, long thought to be absent from western Gozo, exist at Qawra. Remains of a Carthaginian temple complex in use between 300 BC and 100 AD survive at tal-Harrux, where graffiti in a rock-cut cave portray a hermit at prayer. And there is a Roman Tomb at Dwejra Bay which, popular with bathers, derives its fame from a singular rock that shelters it.
Few rocks can claim the historical prominence of this 65-metre high megalith known as Gebla tal-General (General's Rock) or Fungus Rock. The importance comes from a minute plant that has been mistaken for a fungus. Botanically known as Cynomorium Coccineum, the mysterious red plant with tiny flowers was once believed to have great healing powers. It was applied to cure internal bleeding, stop vomiting, relieve blood pressure, control menses, treat dysentery and venereal disease, etc. and was used as a contraception and even as a toothpaste, in short a panacea thought to exist nowhere in the world except for this strange-looking rock. (...)
(...) One of the most interesting formations in the whole archipelago is it-Tieqa taz-Zerqa (Blue Window). Accessible both by boat and on foot, this natural doorway resembling a giant prehistoric dolmen is a favourite of professional photographers. In the area there are also several salt pans (troughs to retrieve salt from sea-water). Standing as it does along these intriguing western limits, this window serves as symbol of the Maltese coastal wilderness. It is the final outpost of San Lawrenz and the last frontier of a nation that is much bigger than its size.
9. GHARB
(...) The current parish church, also dedicated to the Visitation, lies but a few hundred metres away and shares the village square with a stone cross. It is a beautiful church in the form of a Greek cross and with a striking concave facade. As a baroque opus, intricate sculpture isn't lacking. Carved around the main door are the symbols of Faith, Hope, and Charity. Nor does the church have any shortage of historic paintings and artifacts. The oil painting behind the main altar was donated by Grand Master de Vilhena and the baptismal font is a 15th century artifact retrieved from the rubble of the cathedral of Mdina, in Malta, after the earthquake of 1693.
The titular statue (1853) portrays St. Mary and St. Elizabeth conferring about the upcoming birth of Jesus. Executed by Guzeppi Vella (1802-66), who is better known as Mastru Pepp (Master Joe), the twice-gilded statue cost 200 skudi (50 U.S. dollars). It is taken out in procession at the end of the village festa (1st Sunday of July). Other processions honour Our Lady under other titles as well as St. Joseph and the Blessed Sacrament.
This church is one of the two Gharb churches that enjoy basilica privileges. The other, ta'Pinu Basilica, is the subject of Gharb's greatest miracle.The story goes back to a medieval church looked after by Filippino (Pinu) Gauci. Several times this building was condemned, but each time divine will prevailed. In 1575 the church was scheduled to be demolished but, according to tradition, the man who gave the first pickax blow broke his arm in so doing. The church was again ordered closed in 1654 by Bishop Balaguer but was reopened after a providential grant allowed it to be restored in 1676. The miracle happened on June 22, 1883, to Karmni Grima, a 45-year old spinster who worked at a nearby farm. As she walked across the fields she heard the Maltese words ejja, ejja (come in). The words came from a voice inside the church. 'Do come in today', the voice repeated, "for it will be another year before you will be able to return". Karmni Grima (1838-1922) became very sick after this incident, and it was a full year before she was able to return to the little church. (...)
10. GHASRI
(...) With 339 people, Ghasri is Gozo's smallest parish and village. And one of the most traditional. Like neighbouring Zebbug, with which it formed part till 1921, Ghasri probably owes its name to the olive industry. One of the usages of the verb ghasar (to press) refers to a squeezing process producing olive oil, an ancient enterprise. The emblem of l-Ghasri (pronounced like the first parts of Lhasa and Riyadh ) consists of three olive trees and three olive presses. The village motto declares that its accomplishments are ex labore fructus (the fruit of its labour).
Quiet Ghasri comes alive once a year for its annual festa of Corpus Christi (Body of Christ). This is a devout observance in every town and village but a titular feast at Ghasri alone. Festa day is celebrated on the Sunday following Trinity Sunday, or two Sundays after Pentecost, and this normally means the early part of June. Other processions are held for Our Lady of Sorrows (one week before Good Friday), St. Joseph the Worker (May 1), and the Sacred Heart of Jesus (June).
Corpus Christi (Body of Christ) is the veneration of the Holy Eucharist, one of the great mysteries of the Catholic faith. Because the object of worship is a divine mystery, rather than a sculpturable idol, designing a suitable titular statue was a challenge. So much so that until 1982 the village was the only parish in Gozo without one. (...)
(...) From here down to the coast it is a placid grace along the wied which, at its confluence with the sea, becomes a fjord-like gorge. This pleasant scene can be viewed from the hill which is home to the first lighthouse ever to be built in Gozo. Known as ta' Gordan, it surveys the north shore from an altitude of 180 metres. In 1667, its first year, it was just a small beacon. But it served the purpose of guiding the ships that frequented the picturesque inlets. Under British governor William Reid, a large oil lantern was supplied (1853). This flashed at intervals with the help of a revolving reflector. 1857 saw the building of the new 21-metre-high lighthouse, whose 23 gasoline lamps remained in place till 1963. A new electric device now supplies a lamp with such an intensity that its beacon stretches over a radius of over fifty kilometres. No matter how modern this lighthouse becomes, however, it will always shed an alluring rhyme, like the verse that Gabriele d'Annunzio devoted to it in one of his poems. (...)
11. ZEBBUG
(...) Except for the coastal portions of Qbajjar and Marsalforn, iz-zebbugin actually live on two hills connected by a narrow strip of land. The land drops abruptly all around. Perhaps this can best be experienced along the road to Qbajjar. It is said that Field Marshall Lord Gort, Governor of Malta during part of World War II, was once driven along this road. Remarked his lordship "I have never been so afraid on the battlefield as I was while driving down this hill". Even though it is now paved, some wouldnít drive it on a rainy day without first saying a prayer. Zebbug, one will find out, is a prayer.
Another steep hill at Zebbug is the flat-topped ta' Kuljat, which contains some bronze age silo pits. These flat-topped hills are quite common in Malta and Gozo. Many of them seem to have been settled during the bronze age. The area between this hill and Qbajjar to the north contains many Punic and prehistoric tombs.
Zebbug excels. The villagers are known for the high quality of their bizzilla (lace), nsig (weaving), and woollen blankets. Their religious values are untarnished, as judged for example from the high priority given to the maintenance of street niches. But what really sets Zebbug apart is the fine onyx that was dug out of its quarries in the 1980s. This was actually discovered in 1738, but the material was believed to be alabaster until samples were sent to an institute of mineralogy in Florida by two Gozitan priests, Professor Joseph Bezzina and Florida resident Tony Mercieca. The onyx transformed the parish church of Zebbug into a dazzling array of artistic sculptures. One simply cannot but be awed by the consummate altar, pulpit, font and other superb onyx works. (...)
(...) The most unique event is one known as tal-Ghazziela, which honours the Holy Name of Mary. Working with donated flour, the women of the village make hundreds of round pastries with an M, for Mary, in the middle. On the first Sunday of August, the arch priest blesses these pastries called ghazziela and passes them along to the parishioners. After taking part in a procession with the pastries, the people hang them behind the main doors as symbols of protection against wars and natural disasters. (...)
(...) Included with Zebbug is a good portion of Gozo's north shore, which is characterized by scenic inlets, natural bluffs and man-made salt pans. At Wied il-Ghasri, one of the islandís beauty spots, quaint boat shelters align the narrow canyon, which also offers a small sandy beach. On the east side of this inlet we find the first concentration of salt pans (flat troughs cut into the rock to reclaim salt from the sea via an evaporation process). Many of these are hand-dug and date from the 18th century. (...)
12. XAGHRA
South Americans have their amazons, and Scandinavians their valkyries, but Gozitans have a whole array of superwomen. These include the sea-nymph Calypso, the mysterious 'White Lady', and the Giantess.
It was perhaps Homer who fostered the giant myth. As the great Greek writer romanticized over the peoples of the Mediterranean, his poetic imagination ran into various monsters. But when he wrote his epic poem Odyssey (around 750 BC), the giants of Gozo had already done their work, erecting Torri tal-Gganti (Tower of Giants) upon Xaghra hill around 3500 BC.
The archaeological complex is now known as Ggantija (the first G is soft, the second hard). It is truly a gargantuan endeavour. Not only are the stones huge, up to 6 metres wide and nearly as high, but also some of the inner decorative ones are of the globigerina (tal-franka ) type of limestone which is not found in the area. (...)
(...) Maltese prehistory has been divided into three epochs - Neolithic, Temple, and Bronze Age. The temple period is further broken into five categories, the middle of which (3600-3000 BC) takes the Ggantija name. The Guinness Book of World Records has declared Ggantija, together with Skorba on the main island, as the oldest known free-standing structure in the world. (...)
(...) The fair village of Xaghra is situated on a plateau across a valley from the Citadel of Gozo, with which it once shared a parish. The middle hill in a series of three depicted on the Gozo banner, Xaghra (pronounced shah-rah) means 'plateau'. It was previously known as Xaghret il-Ghazzenin (Idlers' Plateau) and il-Qacca (highest place).
The latter was often given an Italian spelling and sound - Caccia ('cut-cha'). This happens to be an Italian word meaning 'hunting'. And Xaghra happens to be a historic hunting area. In 1695, Grand Master Adrien de Wignacourt decreed the area his personal hunting grounds and heavy punishments were meted to those caught with any hunting tools or dogs. The traditional emblem of Xaghra is dominated by a bird. Like the bird, the village motto is librat et evolat (Poised and Soaring). (...)
(...) The saddest period in the history of Xaghra is the plague of 1814. Along a steep road aptly called is-Sellum (The Ladder) is a niche dating from that year. Situated in the middle of Gozo (the exact centre, some say), it has been maintained since its erection by contributions from every part of the island. At one point, the collections were entrusted to a man who was deaf and mute, and hence known as il-Mutu. This man made his solicitations wearing a cotton-weaved horga (bag) and clanging on a tin can. When he died, his can was used as a drinking cup by mute children. The little shrine, one of almost 50 street niches in Xaghra, is known to this day as in-Nicca tal-Mutu. Dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, this niche was granted a forty-day indulgence by Bishop Mattei in 1822, as stated in an inscription. This means that the faithful who recite the designated prayer in front of the image get a forty-day reprieve from purgatory. (...)
13. NADUR
(...) By 1720 a beautiful area known as il-Buskett (Little Forest) had become the site for the celebration of l-Imnarja (lim-nar-ya) on June 29. The name of this festival is derived from luminaria (illumination). People from all parts of Gozo convened for the horse races, picnics and other merry-making activities. It was especially popular with honeymooners. The Nadur tradition parallels that of Rabat, Malta, where Mnarja festivities complete with horse races are still held at a place also called il-Buskett. (...)
(...) Dahlet Qorrot is a charming fishing cove with snorkeling-perfect waters. Some of its many caves and ledges underneath the cliffs have been converted into boat shelters and even summer retreats for people who love a serene spot. (...)
v(...) Nadur hill, a mile away and almost 160 metres aloft, never needed to be fortified. The naked eye of watchful sentries could spot any danger in time to get the needed help. The village's motto confirms that with one word: vigilat (Vigilant).
To be sure, there is a tower atop the craggy heights of Nadur, where a lonely gun still points at beautiful Mgarr harbour. But Kenuna Tower is not a defensive one. It was built in 1848 as a telegraph link between Malta and Gozo. Many other historic buildings survive at Nadur, where taí Sufa Windmill tower serves as a token of more agrarian times where there is the only Gozitan memento of the mayoral institution of the late 18th and early 19th century - relatives of the last colonial mayor still live in a part of id-Dar tas-Sindku (the Mayor's House). Also at Nadur is the first school outside the capital of Rabat (1842). Just three metres from the south sacristy of the basilica, this is surmounted by a niche. On the feast day of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (July 16), this niche is serenaded by the village band and accoladed by lights, fireworks, and a gathered crowd. There are about 20 street niches in Nadur, some quite elaborate, others embellish the façades of houses and small businesses.
The grand tower of Nadur is not one of guns, even though two old cannons stand guard at the magnificent entrance. A village square in lieu of a moat and a stone cross in place of a sentinel, the true strengths of Nadur are embodied in its huge basilica. Nadur became a parish of 400 people in 1688, when it comprised the eastern third of Gozo ( Nadur, Qala, Ghajnsielem, Mgarr Harbour and Comino Island). The historic shrine of the Immaculate Conception at Qala was chosen to serve as parish church temporarily while work was started on a bigger church on Nadur Hill. Three centuries after the parish was established, the dispute still goes on about whether it was Nadur or Qala that was proclaimed a parish by Bishop Cocco Palmeri. Both villages have streets named for the day that the parish was established (April 28, 1688). In 1988, both localities celebrated the 300th anniversary with unyielding pride.
The choice of the location for a new parochial church is the subject of the pious legend of Girgor Buttigieg. Girgor was a farmer accredited with saintly visions and prophetic powers. He could even, according to one account, predict the outcome of horse races and he would confide with bettors if they promised to donate their winnings to the church! Such was the respect enjoyed by Girgor that the parish priest entrusted him with the choice of the site for the new church. The farmer blindfolded his donkey, loaded him with the foundation stone, and let the animal loose. Girgor followed the donkey with a cross and a prayer book. Despite the weight of the rock, the donkey walked toward the highest point of the village. (...)
14. QALA
(...) Were a bridge to be constructed between Malta and Gozo, as is proposed from time to time, the likely end-point on the Gozitan side would be Qala.
Qala is the farthest village from Gozo's capital and the closest to the rest of the Maltese archipelago. The rocky hillsides of Qala have an unobstructed view of the islands of Malta and Comino. Breathtaking scenes can be enjoyed, among other places, from the Qala Belvedere and from the small courtyard in front of a church dedicated to the Immaculate Conception but known as Santa Marija tal-Blat (Saint Mary of the Rocks). This church faces Comino and it is said that it was built so the people of that island could follow mass from across the straits when rough weather precluded a priest from going there. (...)
(...) Despite this proximity, Qala's contact with the other islands is practically invisible. Occupying the easternmost corner of Gozo, Qala is clearly off the beaten path. Still, hordes of tourists descend upon this traditional village of 444 families to see the villageís prehistoric remains and its 19th century windmills.
There was a time when the windmill was a common sight. Until late in the 19th century there was no better way to grind wheat and barley into flour. But steam mills brought one windmill after another to a halt. Qala Windmill is the best preserved one in the country. The tower of a second windmill, known as ta' Sufa, also survives. (...)
(...) Qala's history goes back nearly 6,000 years. Several temple period and Punico-Roman pottery have been gathered, with potentially more still lying about. It is possible that il-Gebla l-Wieqfa (Standing Rock), Qalaís most important prehistoric specimen, may have been the cornerstone of a temple. A rough pyramid, this is an 11-foot high megalith known in Gozitan mythology as the seat of the giantess. (...)
(...) A walk along the ruts takes one past an old deffuna, a stone used to crush pottery into powder for building purposes. The ruts continue amidst a forest of wild thyme and xkattapietra, a plant unique to Malta and named for its use as treatment for stones in the gallbladder (xkatta break, pietra stone). The ruts end near another group of megalithic structures and, of course, another great view of Comino.
Amid prehistoric sites that are too numerous to document lies the Qala Sanctuary, one of Gozo's most sacred shrines. The site of this church has been graced by a Christian monument since times unknown. Tradition holds that Count Roger, who is credited with liberating the Maltese from Muslim rule in 1091, used to pray in it. Adjacent to the church is a cemetery whose origins are likewise buried in antiquity. An early 20th century milepost serves as a marker for the cemetery. (...)
(...) Among the part-legendary, part-historic refugees of Qala is San Kerrew (St. Corrado). This holy man, who lived in the 15th century, did not need a bridge to cross to Qala. Chased away from Malta because of his strict moral standards, Kerrew simply rolled out his mantle and crossed over the sea. Once in Qala, he resumed his life as a hermit and a prophet, correctly foretelling, among other things, the coming of the Knights and the building of Valletta.
Another story, this one from Sicily, even claims that St. Corrado of Noto once crossed over to that island, his mantle again providing the transportation. This could of course be a different Corrado, but the similarities are compelling. A weekly recitation used to be held in front of a shrine in Noto: Sancte Corrade, qui de Melita in Siciliam sicco vestigio pertransisti, ora pro nobis (St. Corrado, who crossed to Sicily from Malta without wetting your feet, pray for us). (...)
=========================================================== We would like to thank Charles Fiott for granting us permission to publish the above excerpts.
'Award of Excellence' received from
StudySphere
(July 2006)